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Nihari is considered the national dish of Pakistan, representing the confluence of migration, integration, and evolution of regional flavours. Nihari originates from the word "nihar" meaning morning in Arabic/Urdu, as it was traditionally eaten at dawn. The dish emerged in the late 18th century in the Mughal empire. Originally, nihari was a breakfast dish for Nawabs (nobility), prepared overnight and simmered for hours in large pots. Working-class labourers would eat it in the early morning for sustained energy throughout the day, particularly during cold winters.

After the partition of India in 1947, the dish evolved in different Pakistani regions – the Karachi style became spicier, Lahori version often includes more marrow, Hyderabad's version uses extra spices and Peshawar adapted it with different meat cuts. It's particularly popular during Ramadan for Sehri (pre-dawn meal) and is a staple at Pakistani weddings and celebrations. Traditional Nihari shops still cook the dish overnight in large handis (pots), often selling out by mid-morning.

For the nihari masala

To serve

Nutrition: Per serving

  • kcal552
  • fat36g
  • saturates12g
  • carbs4g
  • sugars0.4g
  • fibre3g
  • protein50g
  • salt1.35g

Method

  • step 1

    In a spice grinder or mini food processor, add all the nihari masala ingredients with 2 tbsp hot water and blitz to a fine paste. Set aside 3 tsp of the nihari masala spice blend for serving.

  • step 2

    Heat the oil and ghee in a large, heavy-based pan over medium heat. Fry the ginger and garlic until fragrant, around 2 mins. Add the lamb and fry all over for 10 mins or until well browned. Stir in the Kashmiri red chilli powder, the remaining nihari masala and 1 tsp salt. Fry until spices are fragrant, 1-2 mins, adding a splash of water if needed to prevent sticking. Add 1.5 litres of water, or just enough to submerge the meat.

  • step 3

    Bring to a simmer, then cook, covered, over a medium-low heat for 45 mins-1 hr. Remove 150ml of the cooking liquid and whisk with both flours until combined. Return to pan and stir well. Cover and cook on a low heat for a further 2 hrs, or until the meat is fall-apart tender.

  • step 4

    Serve garnished with coriander, ginger, chillies, fried onions, lemon wedges, and the reserved spice blend, and naan on the side, if you like.

Recipe tip

The stew is typically served with naan, kulcha (leavened bread), or roti (flatbread) to mop up the juices. Garnishes are served separately for each person to customise.

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